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10+ Amazing Things to Do in Valletta

by Silke Elzner

Malta is not just an island of sunshine and beaches. It is a nation that has seen many ups and downs over the course of many centuries. Not surprisingly, there are quite a few attractions that you can explore in its capital Valletta, in particular if you are visiting by cruise ship for one day only. 

But even if you are not visiting Valletta on a land excursion, please think about planning a day trip to Valletta when you are on vacation in Malta.

You wonder why? In this post, let me share with you some amazing things to do in Valletta!

Barrakka Lift connects the waterfront with the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

Exploring Valletta’s Atmosphere and Attractions

Valletta has had many challenges and changes over the centuries, and they are all reflective in the distinct cityscape. With so many people coming to stay the mix of cultures is evident, too.

This makes Valletta in my view one of the most exciting and underrated city trip destinations in Europe.

Granted, it is not easy to get around the old town to see all of Valletta’s attractions on foot as there are quite a few steep inclines and steps to master. But if you take your time you can still get around fairly easily and explore all the intimate details of this marvellous city.

I visited Valletta twice. Once with a cruise ship, and another time as part of a 10-day holiday with the family. On both occasions, I really loved walking the ancient streets of this beautiful city, feasting on delicious traditional dishes and enjoying the gorgeous views over the harbour.

But of course, there are also many points of interests to explore.

Golden arches of the cathedral
Gold, gold, everywhere. St. John’s Co-Cathedral is very unassuming from the outside, but the inside reveals a splendour which is almost unmatched in the Mediterranean region.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral

It really goes without saying that the St John’s Co-Cathedral is the absolute highlight for any visit to Valletta – probably the best attraction you can find in the city.

Built by the Knights Hospitallars in the 16th century, this cathedral is as full of splendour as it is dull on the outside. Don’t let first impressions deceive you!

Your entry ticket secures you access to one of the most lavishly decorated Baroque churches of the Occident. You can explore it in your own time with a self-guided audio tour. Make sure you also take note of the details, as outlined in my earlier post here.

Visit the official website for current opening times (it is closed on Saturday afternoons, Sundays and on public holidays!), fees and other information. The cathedral is a very popular attraction, in particular on cruise ship days, so expect some delays.

Grandmaster's Palace
Visiting the Grandmaster’s Palace is one of the top things to do in Valletta. The Order of St John ruled Malta for many centuries and were able to fend of Ottoman invaders during the Grand Siege of Malta. The palace is the former residence of the Grand Master, today it is the residence of the President of Malta.

Grandmaster’s Palace

The Knights Hospitallers of Malta have left a lasting impact on the city of Valletta.

Not only did they invest in the great fortifications of the city (which helped tremendously in most cases when warding off attackers, for example during the famous Great Siege). They also built hospitals and other infrastructure projects which turned the city into a thriving centre in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea.

Visiting the Grandmaster’s Palace is like stepping into the core of these operations. This Valletta attraction has a distinct medieval feel to it, not only because suits of armour of all shapes and sizes line the hallways.

There is also the famous Tapestry Chamber, former meeting place of the Council of the Order of St John, where you can see some exquisite and delicate tapestry work. Read here in my other post about all the treasures and state rooms that you can find at the Grandmaster’s Palace.

Porta Reale
The City Gate is the fifth of its kind in this location. This used to be the main entrance to the city. Today, the modern design blends in perfectly with the century old masonry of the city walls. If you are visiting by bus or rental car, chances are that this will be the first Valletta attraction that you will see as you enter the old city.

Valletta’s City Gate

Valletta is a city that is continuously reforming itself. It’s like a modern city squeezed into medieval fortifications. Straight and clean lines bumping into crumbling limestone foundations and barbicans.

There is one really striking feature in Valletta which sums up the relationship between old and new in a fascinating way: the Porta Reale, the City Gate.

This main gate to the city has been redesigned and rebuilt several times over the centuries. The latest design by architect Renzo Piano was just completed in 2014. The Valletta attraction consists of high blades of steel, poking into the clear blue sky on a hot summer’s day. They separate this new design from the old bastion.

As it is with many modern approaches to architecture, this gate has copped plenty of criticism left and right for not fitting in the Baroque feel of the rest of the city. In my opinion though, this clear and bold design works perfectly with the medieval fortifications all around it.

Upper Barrakka Gardens
Upper Barrakka Gardens are a great respite from the busy streets of Valletta. From here you can enjoy fantastic views across the harbour to the Thee Cities. Make sure you protect yourself from the sun as little shade is provided.

The Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens

So what’s the deal with these two gardens? They are not linked in any way, but they are like twins of the same idea. Dominated by stone, pavers and arches both gardens offer magnificent views of the Grand Harbour and the city, while shady trees and fountains help cool down the hot city air in summer.

Important historic figures have been memorised in busts and statues placed around the gardens of this important Valletta attraction. They make for an interesting history lesson when you visit with your kids.

If you are going to visit just one of the gardens, make it the Upper Barrakka Gardens which offer superior views. From here you can also clearly see the nearby Saluting Battery (cannons lined up to face the harbour).

The striking Barrakka Lift conveniently connects the Upper Barrakka Gardens and the city centre with the harbour (you can see it more clearly in the first picture above). If arriving by cruise ship you will most likely want to rely on this lift. The journey up costs only 1 EUR, the trip down is free.

Modern architecture in Valletta
The new Parliament Building in Valletta was designed by Renzo Piano, the man who is also responsible for The Shard in London. The Maltese like to call it a cheese grater.

The New Parliament House of Malta

Just like the nearby City Gate the brand-new Parliament of Malta has been designed by architect Renzo Piano. In my opinion, another great approach to linking modern elements to the city’s medieval past.

The limestone features skilfully display the relationship between colours, shapes and textures. Shadow and light add to the dramatic viewpoints and playful angles of the building. I think this tastefully designed building really helps carry Malta over into the 21st century.

Although I do understand if critics don’t approve of yet another open space vanishing under a massive building project in a city that is struggling for space within its city walls.

Maltese Balcony
A typical Maltese Balcony. Balconies were display of wealth and an important prestige object for Maltese families. They come in all shapes and sizes. Some of them are very colourful.

An Underrated Valletta Attraction: The Maltese Balcony

Valletta’s long and hilly city streets come with an unique feature: the Maltese Balcony.

You really cannot walk the city streets and not take note of these building features. They play an important role in the city’s history. These enclosed wooden balconies have developed over time into signs of prestige and a status symbol of the families living in the buildings.

Balconies can be big and small in Valletta, some of them ridiculously high up and wrap around corners. Many of them are quite simple. Some of them do show that a lot of thought and effort have gone into the design of the balcony.

Maltese balconies have indeed been part of the building plan of the city for centuries. The Knights Hospitallers requested that building blocks would have to have some form of ornamental decoration on the corner. So if it wasn’t a saint in a glass case it might as well have been a lavishly decorated balcony.

Walk around Valletta and you will easily see some very fine examples of these balconies. More info can also be found here: https://vassallohistory.wordpress.com/the-maltese-balcony/

Detail of the Saluting Battery
Every day at noon the saluting battery fires shots across the harbour. A popular event that attracts hundreds of visitors each day. To see it, make sure you arrive 15 minutes early at Upper Barrakka Gardens.

The Saluting Battery

If you are arriving in Malta on a cruise ship you might be lucky to see the cannons salute you from the Saluting Battery. If that’s not the case then make sure you watch the spectacle at noon or 4pm.

In fact, you can visit the battery and its attached museum to learn a bit more about Malta during less peaceful times.

The artillery battery goes back to the time of the Order of St. John, who had recaptured the area after the Ottoman siege.

You can easily see the guns from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. This attraction is free: No need to buy museum tickets if you just want to check out the sight.

St Elmo and Breakwater Bridge is a well-known Valletta Attraction
St Elmo and Breakwater Bridge are well-known Valletta Attractions. In former times the fort controlled access to the harbour.

Fort St. Elmo

Fans of military history and medieval fortifications will love Fort St. Elmo. It is the most prominent structure you will see if you happen to enter Valletta through the Grand Harbour.

This fort is around 500 years old and has seen a lot of action and a lot of different owners over time. From the first occupation during the Bronze Age to the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Normans, the Swabians, the Spanish to the Order of St John’s, most armies have left some piece of their history behind. You can now see this best at the intriguing National War Museum.

The fort has only last year been greatly restored after it had been classified as one of the most endangered sites in the world in 2008.

A must-see is the In Guardia Parade on Sundays which is an re-enactment of the Order of St John’s Knights who will prove to the Great Bailiff in their finest uniforms their state of readiness in the event of a military threat.

Strait Street

If you are a British national chances are you have heard of Valletta’s Strait Street before. “The Gut”, as British sailors and servicemen liked to call it, was and still is today Valletta’s epicentre of the nightlife scene.

But as it is with many places that have an acquired a bad reputation many decades ago, things have changed. Today, visitors will find the Strait Street to be less raunchy or seedy than expected.

In the age of multiculturalism the street is no longer the only point of cultural and linguistic exchange. People living in this street even used to speak a distinct patois. But it is still a typical Valletta road, long and narrow. The night clubs, restaurants and bars are today popular with locals and visitors to the city. A great thing to do in Valletta at night.

The Site of the Opera in Valletta
The Site of the Opera in Valletta – Valletta is a fine example of a city which continuously reinvents itself.

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

Another interesting sight in the centre of Valletta is the Pjazza Teatru Rjal. The place used to be an eyesore for so many years but has been given new life recently thanks to the modern open-air theatre that is now filling this space.

This is the site of the Royal Opera House which unfortunately took a direct hit during World War II. For many decades, it had been a square in ruins. But thanks to recent developments locals and visitors to the city now enjoy cultural performances here once again.

To me the site did feel a little bit unfinished, mostly due to the scaffolding that support the open-air ranks. Columns are erected as part of the design, most of them in ruined state, as to remind of the former grandeur of the Opera House.

A typical streetscape in Malta.

More Great Things to do in Valetta if you have More Than 1 Day

Besides these 10 suggestions above, there are more things to see in Valletta that I would like to share with you.

  • Three Cities: Take a small ferry to the other side of the harbour to see some parts of the Three Cities. The fare is very little, the trip short. We took the ferry to Birgu (Vittoriosa) which is like a prettier, quieter version of Valletta. Highly recommended!
  • Valletta Waterfront: The waterfront is a historic site in Valletta, the place where ships used to dock for hundreds of years. Today, cruise ship passengers and the Three Cities ferries and harbour cruises are the only ships that make use of this part of the harbour. Beautiful to look at: the historic Forni Stores that provide great photo opportunities.

    Valletta Waterfront: In former times merchants from all around the Mediterranean would unload their goods here.
  • Republic Street: Republic Street is the main thoroughfare in Valletta, and the place to go when you want to shop. It’s a pedestrian zone, but quite busy at times, too. Since it connects some of Valletta’s best known points of interest, you are likely to stumble on this street too on your tour of the city.
  • Casa Rocca Piccola: Ever wondered how the nobility used to live in medieval Valletta? At Casa Rocca Piccola you can see a perfectly preserved mansion stuffed with lots of antiques and a wonderful art collection. As an added bonus, there is even an air raid shelter. Guided tours only, on the hour, open daily from 10-5pm. Closed on Sundays and Public Holidays. More info here.
  • St. Ursula Street: If you are looking for a picture-perfect Valletta street complete with steps and balconies and maybe the odd sleeping cat on the door step, try your luck with St. Ursula Street and the surrounding streets.
  • Walk Around the Peninsula: Looking for another thing to do in Valletta? Try this: You can walk around the tip of the Valletta Peninsula, starting at the wharf of the Sliema ferry and then over the rocks around Fort St Elmo. The walk takes around 30 minutes and you will end at the Malta Experience, a short audio-visual introduction into the 7,000 year old history of Malta.
Valletta is a city full of flavour! Besides the obvious points of interests, there are many more things to see in Valletta.

Further recommended reading on Malta:

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